Breast Cancer in Women and Pets

July 25th, 2008

Breast cancer is a common problem in women as we are all aware.

It was devastating for her fans when Kylie Minogue was diagnosed a few years ago. At least she has made a full recovery.

 I understand the prevalence of breast cancer in women depends on genetics and also menstrual cycle history. The literature implies that starting menstruation at a young age, entering menopause later and not having children, or having them late in life, will significantly increase the risk of developing breast cancer. So basically, risk relates to having more menstrual cycles and undergoing all the changes in hormones, notably oestrogen, which accompanies a menstrual cycle. Also, I believe that breast feeding is associated with hormones that protect the breast tissue from developing cancer.

If we all had five or more children, like the ‘good old days’, then we’d have much fewer menstrual cycles! Personally I’m getting too old to have five children!

Not being a doctor, I’m sure that I’ve oversimplified things. Being a vet, I can however tell you about breast cancer in pets with authority!

DOGS

Breast cancer is common in older bitches that haven’t been spayed affecting ~25%- about three times more common than in women. In dogs, mammary tumors are the second most common tumour (after skin tumours) over all and the most common tumour in bitches. In my experience it is most common in bitches that haven’t been spayed and haven’t been used for breeding. I suppose the causes are similar to women who haven’t had children.

In bitches between 20-50% of breast cancers are malignant (aggressive and life-threatening) and may spread into lymph nodes and eventually the lungs. Just as you check your own breasts for changes, it is important to check the breast tissue of your pet bitch too. Remember that in bitches, the breast tissue extends all the way from the armpit region down towards the hind legs. If you feel any nodules developing at all, please take her to the vet for an examination.

Radical removal of large amounts of breast tissue and spaying is the only form of treatment available. Even after surgery the outlook can be poor for aggressive tumours.

 

 Because breast cancers depend on oestrogen, having your pet bitch spayed (surgically removing her ovaries and uterus) is really important as a preventative measure. There is no benefit physically or mentally for your bitch to have a litter. It is proven that neutering before the first ‘heat’ reduces the risk of breast cancer development to zero. Spaying before the second ‘heat’ reduces the risk to 8%. Spaying after the third ‘heat’ doesn’t affect the risk of developing breast cancer.

That is why current veterinary advice is to spay bitches at 5-6 months old. Prevention is always better than cure.

CATS

Mammary tumors are the third most common cancer in cats. Predominantly in female cats, I have however seen one male cat with breast cancer. Unfortunately in cats, 80-90% of breast cancers are malignant. Spaying at 6months significantly reduces the risk. As most pet cats are thankfully spayed, I haven’t seen many breast cancers in this species.

RATS

Many people now keep rats as pets and they are delightful. I had two whilst at university. As female rats are very rarely spayed they are at risk of developing breast cancer. In fact it is probably the most common reason they come to the vets. Fortunately in this species the tumours are usually benign and easily cured with surgery.

GUINEA-PIGS

Interestingly, in this species breast cancers actually occur in both males and females equally. Only 30% are malignant but radical surgery is needed to prevent recurrence.

 

Breast cancers also occur in mice, hamsters and gerbils but are rare in rabbits and ferrets.

Staying focused on remaining healthy, it is still important to regularly check your own breasts for any changes and remember to check your pets too!

If you have any questions about mammary cancer in pets please email me at askmichelle@veterinaryblonde.com.

 

‘compassion for animals, passion for nature’

Copyright © Shanson Ltd 2008

Whelping in Bitches

July 25th, 2008

 

One of the questions I’ve been asked via this website was about ‘what to expect in a whelping bitch’! As this is a commonly asked question I have provided the answer for all of you-

WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR BITCH IS WHELPING-

If you stress then she will stress, so remember to stay calm.

Ensure that her whelping box is big enough for her to turn around but small enough to keep the puppies close and warm.

You will need lots of newspaper because whelping is messy! Once she has finished whelping then you can line the box with plenty of clean, dry towels on top of newspaper.

The normal stages of labour-

FIRST STAGE- this may last up to 12 hours and includes restlessness, panting, shivering, crying, sometimes even vomiting. Abdominal contractions are NOT visible to you at this stage.

SECOND STAGE- this is when the puppies are actually born! You will see her have strong and rhythmic abdominal contactions. You will see a sac of fluid come from her vulva with the puppy inside, as the puppy is born this sac will rupture. Your bitch should start to break the puppy free from the sac by licking it and then guide the puppy to her teats. In normal whelping you shoulod NOT need to interfere- most bitches know what to do and get on with it. By the way, the fluid is a green colour- nothing to worry about!

If a pup is in the birth canal for 10 minutes without progressing out, you WILL need to help the pup- using clean fingers and some KY-jelly, gently grasp the puppy and pull him/her forward with a gentle rotating action.

If your bitch has had 

  • strong abdominal contractions for 30 minutes                   
  • OR weak, irregular abdominal contractions for 2 hours           

                        without a puppy being born then CALL YOUR VET.

 

You may need to help free a puppy from it’s sac with your fingers.

Your bitch should take care of breaking the umbilical cord although you may need to cut it yourself- only do this after at least 5minutes and at least 5cm away from the puppy’s belly-button.

THIRD STAGE- this is when the afterbirth is delivered. Your bitch may want to eat the afterbirth but I recommend that you remove it and dispose in normal waste.

Usually one puppy is born and then the afterbirth delivered, then she will have a rest and look after her pup, NO contractions will occur whilst she is resting.

She may deliver two pups and then two placentas, so second and third stages can mix a bit.

She may rest for 15-30minutes (up to 60minutes) and then start contractions again and deliver a second puppy and so on…….

…….so, a litter of four pups could take 6-8 hours to deliver- BE PATIENT!

Expect one pup every 45-60 minutes with 10-30 minutes of hard straining.
You may need to help her dry the pups gently with clean towels.

You may need to show the pups exactly where her teats are.
Remember to offer your bitch plenty of clean water to drink and treats to eat if she wants them.

Remember to

  • keep CALM!
  • keep changing wet towels and keep the pups warm and dry.
  • leave your bitch and the pups alone and unhandled as much as possible.

REASONS TO CALL YOUR VET-

  • if she has been in first stage labour for 12 hours and not progressed to obvious contractions
  • if a puppy is stuck in the birth canal and you are unable to move him/her with your fingers
  • if she has had abdominal contractions for 30minutes- 2 HOURS, depending on strength, without a puppy being born- see above
  • if it more than 2 hours between puppies or second stage labour is lasting 12 hours and is not complete
  • if she has little or no milk from her teats on gentle pressure with your fingers
  • if she has a bad smelling pus filled discharge from her vulva
  • if she has severe bleeding from her vulva
  • if she is off her food, lethargic and not interested in the pups
  • if any of the pups aren’t drinking milk or passing urine and faeces
  • if greater than 70 days of pregnancy have passed.

CALL YOUR VET IF YOU ARE WORRIED- THEY WILL WANT TO HELP.

If you have to call your vet- stay calm, describe the situation carefully, follow advice quickly and calmly.

Be prepared to drive your bitch (and the pups) to your vet if there is a problem.

Make sure you know where the emergency clinic is and the phone number, in case the surgery is closed, ie- the middle of the night!

I always prefer to check bitches and all the pups in the 24-48 hours after whelping just to make sure everything is ok- ask your vet if they do the same. They may not want the pups at the surgery unless absolutely neccessary if there are a lot of sick animals there!

Remember stay calm, your vet surgery is there to help and it’s best to call and get advice quickly if you are worried.

‘compassion for animals, passion for nature’

Copyright © Shanson Ltd 2008

 

Obesity in Pets!

June 26th, 2008

Obesity is the commonest disease seen by vets in practice. Apparently 20-25% of cats and 18-44% of dogs in developed countries are obese.

But what is obesity? Animals are considered to be clinically overweight when they are more than 10% over their ideal weight, and are obese if over 20% of their ideal weight.

Over the years of working as a veterinarian, I have diagnosed many overweight and obese pets- dogs, cats, rabbits and even guinea pigs!

Often overweight pets are owned by overweight owners (although not exclusively), which makes me wonder if some owners are even aware of the problem. This fact can make discussing the issue with clients difficult for some vets. Personally I’m not shy about being direct! As a vet I have a duty of care to explain to owners of overweight pets about the condition and why it’s important to get our pets back to their optimum, healthy weights. I also understand that it’s not usually a simple case of overfeeding.

So, why do pets become overweight in the first place? The reasons can be complex and may include genetics, lack of exercise, overfeeding, neutering. Also certain medical conditions (notably Cushing’s disease and hypothyroidism), and even medications themselves (corticosteroids), can cause weight gain.

Certain breeds of dogs are definitely genetically predisposed to becoming overweight. These breeds are Labradors , golden retrievers, collies, Rottweilers, Bernese Mountain dogs, Newfoundlands, Saint Bernards, beagles, cocker spaniels, basset hounds, cairn terriers, dachshunds, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Scottish terriers and chow chows.

Exercising dogs is very important for their mental well being, fitness and weight control. Sometimes people don’t fully understand the exercise requirements of their chosen breed. Other times owners have changes in working hours, lifestyle changes, illness or disability that reduce the amount of time they can dedicate to exercising their dog.

Many more cats are now kept indoors all the time which means they have less opportunity to exercise. Unfortunately a large number of rabbits and guinea pigs are often kept in their hutches for long periods of time and also suffer from a lack of exercise.

Overfeeding is an obvious cause of obesity. Many people associate feeding their pet with showing love and affection. There are however, many other ways we can demonstrate affection towards our pets, for example stroking and petting them, playing a game, going for a walk with a dog.

Overfeeding relates to the quantity of food and also the type of food. I have seen many adolescent cats and dogs that are already overweight because they are still being fed kitten and puppy food which is really high in calories. We also need to be aware that the feeding instructions on the food are only a guide and need to be adjusted for the individual pet. Ad lib feeding of cats is another way they can become overweight because contrary to popular belief, in my experience, pets are not good at regulating their food intake to maintain optimum weight! Feeding too many treats and table scraps will also predispose the pet to excessive weight gain- this does refer to rabbits and guinea pigs too!

Another time that pets can be accidently overfed is when they are recovering from surgery. My mother-in-law’s dog ‘Red’ is a good example of this. In the space of two years ‘Red’ had operations on both hind limbs which required post-operative rest for a total of about 5 months. During this time, despite having restricted exercise, he was fed the same amount as normal. He started at 16kg and ended up at 19kg two years later. He had gained a massive 18% of his original weight!

Neutering may predispose an animal to weight gain but this weight gain is avoidable with careful attention to feeding regimens post-operatively. In my opinion, the benefits of neutering far outweigh the potential risk of weight gain.

As always, prevention is better than cure! It is really useful to take your pet to the vet surgery regularly for routine weight checks. This way, small increases in weight can be noted and corrected quickly. It is also a good way to get your pet used to the surgery so that he or she is not afraid that something ‘bad’ will happen- weight checks are fun because they usually end with a cuddle (for the pet)!

Why should we worry if our pet is overweight or obese? Even being slightly overweight will reduce the lifespan of your pet and predispose them to problems.

I have seen many overweight pets that are just ‘slow’, they are less active and have a reduced exercise tolerance. Being overweight predisposes to breathing difficulties, heart disease and a reduced immunity. It also increases the risk associated with anaesthesia and surgery.

Joint problems are more prevalent in overweight dogs. Pregnant animals that are overweight have increased risk of dystocia (difficulty giving birth) which may result in the need for a caesarean. Obesity can even predispose to the development of ‘cancer’.

Diabetes mellitus can result from obesity, especially in cats. Overweight cats can also develop a condition called hepatic lipidosis which is fat accumulation in the liver resulting in liver damage. Feline lower urinary tract disease (cystitis) is much more common in overweight male cats and can result in a blockage of the urethra and an inability to urinate which can be life-threatening.

How can we tell if our pet is at the correct weight? When touching a normal animal you should be able to feel his or her ribs easily. In a dog there should be a little ‘waist’ when viewed from above and a ‘tucked up’ abdomen when viewed from the side. Cats should also have a slightly ‘tucked up’ abdomen! Please see the Prurina guide below.

If you can’t easily feel your pet’s ribs please take him or her to the vet for an assessment.

There are many ways we can help your pet to lose weight if needed. The aim is to lose weight at the rate of 1-2 % per week until the desired weight is reached and then maintain it- this is lifelong treatment involving calorie control and exercise.

Firstly we must reduce overall calorie intake. This may be as simple as slightly reducing portion size and cutting out/reducing/changing unhealthy treats. Remember that animals don’t always require food as a reward! A cuddle or game will do just as well! For dogs, using toys such as ‘Kong’ toys is a way to make the food portion last longer and provides mental stimulation whilst retrieving the food. Sometimes just actually weighing the daily portion of food can make a huge difference because then you accurately know how much food your pet is actually eating!

If stricter reductions in calorie intake are required, then I recommend a veterinary prescription diet- the protein, vitamins and minerals are balanced to a lower intake of diet overall. Restricting the quantities of a normal diet may cause a risk of deficiencies.

Increasing exercise is also really important to use up calories and ensure that lean muscle is retained as your pet loses weight. This increase needs to be initiated slowly so as not to physically strain your pet until their health has improved. Older pets with arthritis may require pain medications to encourage them to exercise until they have lost some weight. Hydrotherapy can be an excellent way to help with weight loss, some cats even take to it!

A professional dog walker may be helpful for elderly or disabled/ill owners. The Cinnamon Trust is a UK-based charity that puts dog owners and voluntary dog walkers in contact with each other. Visit www.cinnamon.org.uk !

Recently two veterinary prescription medications have entered the market as an aid to weight loss in DOGS. They work by reducing appetite and the amount of fat absorption. They are NOT licensed for long term use and are designed to aid initial weight loss whilst new feeding and exercise regimens are put into place.

All weight loss programmes for your pet should be undertaken with the aid of your veterinary team. Weight checks every 2-4 weeks are recommended initially. Measuring the circumference of your pet’s waist and taking regular photos will help you see how well your pet is progressing.

Remember ‘Red’ who had gained 18% o his bodyweight!? Well, it took about 8 months to get ‘Red’ back down to his optimal weight. All the effort was worth it because he is now back to his old spritely tricks!

Please remember to regularly check your pet’s weight and ensure they are maintaining optimal weight. This will help ensure they lead long, healthy, happy lives!

Have fun with your pets!

Compassion for animals, passion for nature.’

Copyright© Shanson Ltd 2008