‘Home Improvements’- Lucy Dixon’s top tips for creating a canine comfort zone.

As a result of the property market slow-down, more of us are making home improvements instead of moving house. when getting your first dog it is orth making sure your interior design revamp is both stylish and dog-friendly.

I’m sure I don’t need to tell you that owning a dog doesn’t go hand in hand with having a spotless home. Our best friends do have a tendency to make their presece felt (in my Henry’s case, with muddy paw prints). But, if you’re considering a new kitchen or bathroom, or simply planning a home makeover, there are things you can do to make your home easy to clean, as well as comfortable for both you and your dog.

FLOORING

If you’re planning on changing your floors the chances are you’ll be looking at laminate or real wood flooring, which has soared in popularity in recent years. It’s certainly easy to clean should your dog have an accident indoors, but it’s not necessarily the most dog-friendly choice- particularly if you have a larger breed.

Vet Michelle Shanson, author of Puppy Power (available from VeterinaryBlonde.com), explains: ‘Carpet is better for bigger dogs as wooden floors can pose a problem with grip. Larger dogs, over 12kg, find it harder to stop on slippery floors and are also more prone to hip and joint problems when they get older- skidding around is only going to make this worse.’

There’s a huge choice of flooring materials on the market, from tiles and real wood to carpet and vinyl, so there should be a material to suit your house and your dog. If you opt for carpet, then choose something durable and consider a patterned option- this can hide a multitude of sins inbetween vacuuming.

FURNITURE

As with flooring, the best furniture for dog owners depends on what breed and size of dog is in the house.

Michelle says: ‘If you’ve got a Great Dane it’s unlikely you’ll want him on the sofa, so you really can go for any type of sofa. Owners of smaller dogs might allow them on the furniture, in which case go for a natural fabric that is easy to wash.’

Removable covers that are machine-washable could be a good idea if your dog is allowed on the sofa. Any fabrics that have long strands, such as chenille, are a bad idea as claws can get stuck in the threads. Leather is also best avoided, purely because dogs can easily scratch or tear the material.

Think about the height of any coffee tables too, as waggy tails are often at the right height to send any ornaments (or glasses of wine) flying!

‘The most important point with furniture is that you should have plenty of storage space,’ says Michelle. ‘Make sure you have enough drawers or cupboards so you can put things away, out of the reach of any curious dogs. I’ve seen lots of dogs who have eaten ‘foreign objects’ which can easily be avoided by putting clutter away’ she adds.

If you’re putting up shelves, majke them high enough so your dog can’t help himself to whatever is on them.

WALLS

If you’re giving a room a fresh coat of paint then choose something eco-friendly. Any healthy, happy adult dog should not be chewing your walls to bits, but there’s no harm in opting for paints made using natural materials. Standard paints are made using synthetic ingredients that can be harmful to your health and the environment.

KITCHEN AND BATHROOM

Any kitchen can be made dog-friendly with minimal effort and cost, simply by adding childproof locks to the cupboard doors ( it can’t just be my dog who worked out how to get in the cupboard and help himself to a whole packet of biscuits). There’s various options available, including catches and magnets.

A dog- proof kitchen bin is also a good idea to put a stop to any midnight scavenging.

A simple, and cheap, addition to the bathroom can also make life easier for dog owners: a shower attachment to fit to the bath taps.

If you’re looking to update your whole bathroom, then a wet room style is both practical and fashionable. These showers have no tray to trip over and could make bathing your dog much easier.

As Michelle says: ‘A wet room is a brilliant idea for big dogs particularly. It can be dangerous, for both dog and owner if you struggle to lift your dog into the bath, especially if he is nervous. You could make bath-time fun with a walk-in shower aand turn it into more of a game. Just be careful not to get water in his ears.’

GARDENS

The list of plants that are potentially harmful to dogs is absolutely enormous (see Dogs Trust) and I haven’t heard of most of them. It’s certainly daunting for anyone looking at introducing any new plants into their garden.

Michelle says bulbs can be particularly dangerous: ‘ Daffodil flowers and bulbs are dangerous to dogs, and all bulbs should be kept out of harm’s way before planting. Conkers are also potentially dangerous, because they are poisonous and can also cause an obstruction if swallowed. other plants to avoid include rhododendrons, misletoe and holly.’

Plants with thorns or other spiky bits can injure dogs’ ears and eyes, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have rose bushes- train your dog not to go on the flower beds. When treating your lawn or plants with any feed or weed treatments, make sure you opt for a pet-friedly product and follow the instructions.

HEATING

The year- round warm climate we create in our homes with central heating is reckoned to make some dogs moult excessively. And, short of living without heating, there’s no easy solution to this.

Michelle points out that it won’t cause your dog any harm to live with a lack of seasons. ‘As long as dogs are groomed regularly to avoid a build-up of dead hair, then it shouldn’t be a problem. If your dog has a dry coat then add evening primrose oil to his food, as this will help keep it in good condition.’

CLEANING

So, you’ve finished revamping your home’s decor and want to keep it that way. There’s plenty of products available that will help ensure your home remains beautiful, many of which are specifically aimed at pet owners.

Although I initially thought it was just a marketing gimmick, the pet hair-removing vacuum cleaner that I have really is a miracle worker. Upholstery brushes designed to remove pet hair are also pretty good.

There are also dog-specific cleaning products on the market, although any stain remover should do the job, as long as you pick the right one for the surface, whether it’s the carpet, rug or sofa. JML has an excellent range of cleaning and household products that really do the job. I’m extremely biased when it comes to my dog, and don’t think he smells doggy at all. Love is blind and and apparently, without a sense of smell, after all. But if you’re more realistic than me, then get your hands on a plug-in air freshener to eliminate any poochy pongs.

WHEN THE DAMAGE IS DONE

Finally, every dog owner knows that accidents happen, particularly with young dogs and puppies. So, is ther anything you can do when your dog has chewed the chair leg or the bottom of the kitchen cabinets?

Plastic Surgeon is a nationwide company that offers a cosmetic repair service and says there is no household damage it can’t fix. The company specialises in ‘magically’ repairing anything from bath tubs to car interiors and this includes any dog-inflicted damage.

Copyright Lucy Dixon

Lucy Dixon is a journalist specialising in travel writing. She lives in Bedfordshire with her Cocker Spaniel, Henry.

Please visit her website!

Where was the string from?- It had been used to tie the Christmas cards together to hang them as Christmas decorations. Boris’s owners had seen him playing with the string and just thought it was cute- they didn’t realise what a disaster was happening.

Boris was immediately put on an intravenous drip to start correcting his dehydration. When I anaesthetised him I could see the string from around his tongue going down his oesophagus- there was a large knot of it. As I cut the string away from his tongue it disappeared down to his stomach.

We prepared Boris for surgery and I made an abdominal incision to have a look….

All the lymph nodes in his abdomen were enlarged and inflamed and his stomach and intestines appeared inflamed. His intestines were thickened along one edge and had lost their natural ‘flexibility’, instead they felt rigid.

It took me a total of two hours and multiple incisions in his intestines and one incision in his stomach to remove all the string. The string was deeply embedded into the tissue of his intestinal wall and you can’t just pull it out through one incision because it causes a ‘consitina’ effect.

Boris stayed in the hospital for three days in total. He wasn’t allowed anything to eat or drink for the first 24 hours. His dehydration was corrected with the intravenous drip which was continued for another two days.

He was obviously given plenty of pain-killers!

On the second day he was started on liquid food and I knew he was feeling better because he was really hungry!

Boris didn’t get back onto solid food for a whole week.

He is back to normal now, eating well and playing again, he hasn’t been sick at all and is passing normal motions. His abdominal wound has healed well and now he just needs his hair to grow back!

In total his owners spent in the region of £700- string-tied cards proved to be a very expensive Christmas decoration!

Boris could have died from this. At least I got to him before his intestines perforated.

Unfortunately Boris will now have scars in his intestines, causing narrowing, where I made the incisions and he will have scarring throughout his abdomen from the intervention. I hope this doesn’t cause problems in his future but this is a recognised potential complication from any intestinal surgery.

So this mishap was a welfare issue for Boris and a stressful, upsetting and expensive incident for his owners. Please protect your cats from this potential hazard…

The moral of the story is DON’T GIVE ANY STRING-LIKE OBJECTS TO YOUR CAT!!!

Copyright ©Shanson Ltd 2009

Unfortunately, sometimes people just buy pets on a whim and then realise a few months later that they made a mistake and take the pet for re homing.

Pets being taken to rescue centres are often young and not neutered (de-sexed), usually having only been owned for 7-12months. Many of these pets are taken on from friends with unwanted animals, often they have never been to a vet and many of the dogs have never had any obedience training.
In my opinion, not training and neutering your pet is just irresponsible.

Rescue centres obviously make a huge effort to rehome these pets in a responsible fashion.
However the sad truth is that many are just on ‘death row’ and end up being euthanased. Often euthanasia boils down to inadequate funds to look after the animals rather then the animals having severe behavioural or veterinary problems.

If you want a pet, PLEASE go to a rescue centre and see if there is an animal to adopt that will suit YOUR circumstances.  Lets reduce the number of animals ending up euthanased for the wrong reasons.

Owning a so called ‘designer dog’ has become a new craze in the last year or so. ‘Designer dogs’ are in fact just a selectively bred cross-breed which you pay a lot of money to buy! I suppose that eventually they may become recognised breeds in their own rights. Why are these ‘designer dogs’ sought after and why have they come into existence in the first place?

Dogs have been selectively bred for hundreds of years to develop traits that were useful for hunting, herding or guarding. Now the emphasis is perhaps more on the look of the dog and increasingly the dog’s temperament and suitability as a companion. Originally people purposefully crossed pure-bred dogs in order to achieve a specific purpose, for example the ‘Labradoodle’ (Labrador cross poodle) was first bred as an attempt to develop guide dogs for visually impaired people with allergies. Unfortunately because these dogs are sought after and can be sold for considerable amounts of money, they have sometimes been bred by unscrupulous breeders. Also, because genetic inheritance is not straight forward it is difficult to predict if these ‘designer dog’ pups will actually have the desired traits.

Celebrities buying these ‘designer dogs’ have fuelled the craze. Jennifer Aniston has a ‘Labradoodle’. Jake Gyllenhaal and Uma Thurman have both been photographed walking their ‘puggles’, a cute cross between a pug and a beagle. Then there’s Jessica Simpson’s dainty ‘maltipoo’, a cross between a Maltese terrier and a toy poodle which is also sometimes called a ‘moodle’. This lack of consistency in names for ‘designer dogs,’ can cause confusion! I think the names of these cross breeds are part of the attraction because they sound so cute and fun!

The UK Kennel Club doesn’t recognise these cross-breeds but in America there is the American Canine Hybrid Club which does.

On a serious note, at a time when rescue centres across the UK are seeing increases in the number of abandoned animals, I think that if you want a cross bred dog you will find a perfectly adorable one in a rescue centre that is delighted to find a happy home. Why spend large amounts of money buying a cross-bred dog labelled as a ‘designer dog’? To be frank, one can easily find pure-bred dogs in rescue centres too.

It is my opinion that while the rescue centres are overflowing with abandoned animals, anyone able to provide the necessary commitment of caring for a dog, should definitely look at a rescue dog first.

Remember, dogs are a life-long commitment, not just a fancy accessory to have like a designer handbag as Paris Hilton and some other celebrities would have us believe! They certainly shouldn’t be carried around all day in handbags!’

Enjoy your lovely pooch, ‘designer’ or not!

Copyright ©Shanson Ltd 2008

You may wonder why such a practice would ever be condoned and the answer is that historically it was performed as a ‘prophylactic measure’ – to prevent the risk of the dog injuring its tail during future work. In more recent times it has become merely the fashion for certain breeds, such as the Rottweiler.

In England and Wales there is now a complete ban on the docking of dogs’ tails with the only exception being for a few particular types of working dog which require specific certification, or for certain medical treatment.

In Scotland there is a complete ban on tail docking and it is not allowed for any reason whatsoever.

In Northern Ireland docking can still be performed on puppies but for truly prophylactic reasons only, and not merely on request or just because a dog is of a particular breed or type.

In those parts of the UK where tail docking is still legal under certain circumstances, it is ONLY a qualified veterinary surgeon that may perform the procedure: the challenge, however, is often finding one who is willing to, since over 90% of vets strongly object to the practice.

Any animal naturally born with a tail relies on it for a number of things, including:

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In my opinion there is no justifiable reason for performing tail docking as a prophylactic measure since the dog experiences evident disadvantages and no genuine benefit. I am especially saddened when I see dogs which have been docked for purely fashionable reasons. I think dogs are most beautiful and magnificent with their tails, as nature intended them and would encourage anyone considering this practice (within the legal framework) to please, think again.

Despite the legislation in place, I am still seeing puppies at work that are docked, often without the owner even realising. If YOU want to buy a puppy with a full length tail, please make it your business to ask questions about your future puppy and make sure he or she is NOT docked before you buy. You have the power to make sure that puppies keep their tails as nature intended!

copyright Shanson Ltd 2008

It was devastating for her fans when Kylie Minogue was diagnosed a few years ago. At least she has made a full recovery.

I understand the prevalence of breast cancer in women depends on genetics and also menstrual cycle history. The literature implies that starting menstruation at a young age, entering menopause later and not having children, or having them late in life, will significantly increase the risk of developing breast cancer. So basically, risk relates to having more menstrual cycles and undergoing all the changes in hormones, notably oestrogen, which accompanies a menstrual cycle. Also, I believe that breast feeding is associated with hormones that protect the breast tissue from developing cancer.

If we all had five or more children, like the ‘good old days’, then we’d have much fewer menstrual cycles! Personally I’m getting too old to have five children!

Not being a doctor, I’m sure that I’ve oversimplified things. Being a vet, I can however tell you about breast cancer in pets with authority!

DOGS

Breast cancer is common in older bitches that haven’t been spayed affecting ~25%- about three times more common than in women. In dogs, mammary tumors are the second most common tumour (after skin tumours) over all and the most common tumour in bitches. In my experience it is most common in bitches that haven’t been spayed and haven’t been used for breeding. I suppose the causes are similar to women who haven’t had children.

In bitches between 20-50% of breast cancers are malignant (aggressive and life-threatening) and may spread into lymph nodes and eventually the lungs. Just as you check your own breasts for changes, it is important to check the breast tissue of your pet bitch too. Remember that in bitches, the breast tissue extends all the way from the armpit region down towards the hind legs. If you feel any nodules developing at all, please take her to the vet for an examination.

Radical removal of large amounts of breast tissue and spaying is the only form of treatment available. Even after surgery the outlook can be poor for aggressive tumours.

Because breast cancers depend on oestrogen, having your pet bitch spayed (surgically removing her ovaries and uterus) is really important as a preventative measure. There is no benefit physically or mentally for your bitch to have a litter. It is proven that neutering before the first ‘heat’ reduces the risk of breast cancer development to zero. Spaying before the second ‘heat’ reduces the risk to 8%. Spaying after the third ‘heat’ doesn’t affect the risk of developing breast cancer.

That is why current veterinary advice is to spay bitches at 5-6 months old. Prevention is always better than cure.

CATS

Mammary tumors are the third most common cancer in cats. Predominantly in female cats, I have however seen one male cat with breast cancer. Unfortunately in cats, 80-90% of breast cancers are malignant. Spaying at 6months significantly reduces the risk. As most pet cats are thankfully spayed, I haven’t seen many breast cancers in this species.

RATS

Many people now keep rats as pets and they are delightful. I had two whilst at university. As female rats are very rarely spayed they are at risk of developing breast cancer. In fact it is probably the most common reason they come to the vets. Fortunately in this species the tumours are usually benign and easily cured with surgery.

GUINEA-PIGS

Interestingly, in this species breast cancers actually occur in both males and females equally. Only 30% are malignant but radical surgery is needed to prevent recurrence.

Breast cancers also occur in mice, hamsters and gerbils but are rare in rabbits and ferrets.

Staying focused on remaining healthy, it is still important to regularly check your own breasts for any changes and remember to check your pets too!

If you have any questions about mammary cancer in pets please email me at askmichelle@veterinaryblonde.com.

‘compassion for animals, passion for nature’

Copyright © Shanson Ltd 2008

WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR BITCH IS WHELPING-

If you stress then she will stress, so remember to stay calm.

Ensure that her whelping box is big enough for her to turn around but small enough to keep the puppies close and warm.

You will need lots of newspaper because whelping is messy! Once she has finished whelping then you can line the box with plenty of clean, dry towels on top of newspaper.

The normal stages of labour-

FIRST STAGE- this may last up to 12 hours and includes restlessness, panting, shivering, crying, sometimes even vomiting. Abdominal contractions are NOT visible to you at this stage.

SECOND STAGE- this is when the puppies are actually born! You will see her have strong and rhythmic abdominal contactions. You will see a sac of fluid come from her vulva with the puppy inside, as the puppy is born this sac will rupture. Your bitch should start to break the puppy free from the sac by licking it and then guide the puppy to her teats. In normal whelping you shoulod NOT need to interfere- most bitches know what to do and get on with it. By the way, the fluid is a green colour- nothing to worry about!

If a pup is in the birth canal for 10 minutes without progressing out, you WILL need to help the pup- using clean fingers and some KY-jelly, gently grasp the puppy and pull him/her forward with a gentle rotating action.

If your bitch has had

• strong abdominal contractions for 30 minutes
• OR weak, irregular abdominal contractions for 2 hours

without a puppy being born then CALL YOUR VET.

You may need to help free a puppy from it’s sac with your fingers.

Your bitch should take care of breaking the umbilical cord although you may need to cut it yourself- only do this after at least 5minutes and at least 5cm away from the puppy’s belly-button.

THIRD STAGE- this is when the afterbirth is delivered. Your bitch may want to eat the afterbirth but I recommend that you remove it and dispose in normal waste.

Usually one puppy is born and then the afterbirth delivered, then she will have a rest and look after her pup, NO contractions will occur whilst she is resting.

She may deliver two pups and then two placentas, so second and third stages can mix a bit.

She may rest for 15-30minutes (up to 60minutes) and then start contractions again and deliver a second puppy and so on…….

…….so, a litter of four pups could take 6-8 hours to deliver- BE PATIENT!

Expect one pup every 45-60 minutes with 10-30 minutes of hard straining.
You may need to help her dry the pups gently with clean towels.

You may need to show the pups exactly where her teats are.
Remember to offer your bitch plenty of clean water to drink and treats to eat if she wants them.

Remember to

• keep CALM!
• keep changing wet towels and keep the pups warm and dry.
• leave your bitch and the pups alone and unhandled as much as possible.

REASONS TO CALL YOUR VET-

• if she has been in first stage labour for 12 hours and not progressed to obvious contractions
• if a puppy is stuck in the birth canal and you are unable to move him/her with your fingers
• if she has had abdominal contractions for 30minutes- 2 HOURS, depending on strength, without a puppy being born- see above
• if it more than 2 hours between puppies or second stage labour is lasting 12 hours and is not complete
• if she has little or no milk from her teats on gentle pressure with your fingers
• if she has a bad smelling pus filled discharge from her vulva
• if she has severe bleeding from her vulva
• if she is off her food, lethargic and not interested in the pups
• if any of the pups aren’t drinking milk or passing urine and faeces
• if greater than 70 days of pregnancy have passed.

CALL YOUR VET IF YOU ARE WORRIED- THEY WILL WANT TO HELP.

If you have to call your vet- stay calm, describe the situation carefully, follow advice quickly and calmly.

Be prepared to drive your bitch (and the pups) to your vet if there is a problem.

Make sure you know where the emergency clinic is and the phone number, in case the surgery is closed, ie- the middle of the night!

I always prefer to check bitches and all the pups in the 24-48 hours after whelping just to make sure everything is ok- ask your vet if they do the same. They may not want the pups at the surgery unless absolutely neccessary if there are a lot of sick animals there!

Remember stay calm, your vet surgery is there to help and it’s best to call and get advice quickly if you are worried.

‘compassion for animals, passion for nature’

Copyright © Shanson Ltd 2008

But what is obesity? Animals are considered to be clinically overweight when they are more than 10% over their ideal weight, and are obese if over 20% of their ideal weight.

Over the years of working as a veterinarian, I have diagnosed many overweight and obese pets- dogs, cats, rabbits and even guinea pigs!

Often overweight pets are owned by overweight owners (although not exclusively), which makes me wonder if some owners are even aware of the problem. This fact can make discussing the issue with clients difficult for some vets. Personally I’m not shy about being direct! As a vet I have a duty of care to explain to owners of overweight pets about the condition and why it’s important to get our pets back to their optimum, healthy weights. I also understand that it’s not usually a simple case of overfeeding.

So, why do pets become overweight in the first place? The reasons can be complex and may include genetics, lack of exercise, overfeeding, neutering. Also certain medical conditions (notably Cushing’s disease and hypothyroidism), and even medications themselves (corticosteroids), can cause weight gain.

Certain breeds of dogs are definitely genetically predisposed to becoming overweight. These breeds are Labradors , golden retrievers, collies, Rottweilers, Bernese Mountain dogs, Newfoundlands, Saint Bernards, beagles, cocker spaniels, basset hounds, cairn terriers, dachshunds, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Scottish terriers and chow chows.

Exercising dogs is very important for their mental well being, fitness and weight control. Sometimes people don’t fully understand the exercise requirements of their chosen breed. Other times owners have changes in working hours, lifestyle changes, illness or disability that reduce the amount of time they can dedicate to exercising their dog.

Many more cats are now kept indoors all the time which means they have less opportunity to exercise. Unfortunately a large number of rabbits and guinea pigs are often kept in their hutches for long periods of time and also suffer from a lack of exercise.

Overfeeding is an obvious cause of obesity. Many people associate feeding their pet with showing love and affection. There are however, many other ways we can demonstrate affection towards our pets, for example stroking and petting them, playing a game, going for a walk with a dog.

Overfeeding relates to the quantity of food and also the type of food. I have seen many adolescent cats and dogs that are already overweight because they are still being fed kitten and puppy food which is really high in calories. We also need to be aware that the feeding instructions on the food are only a guide and need to be adjusted for the individual pet. Ad lib feeding of cats is another way they can become overweight because contrary to popular belief, in my experience, pets are not good at regulating their food intake to maintain optimum weight! Feeding too many treats and table scraps will also predispose the pet to excessive weight gain- this does refer to rabbits and guinea pigs too!

Another time that pets can be accidently overfed is when they are recovering from surgery. My mother-in-law’s dog ‘Red’ is a good example of this. In the space of two years ‘Red’ had operations on both hind limbs which required post-operative rest for a total of about 5 months. During this time, despite having restricted exercise, he was fed the same amount as normal. He started at 16kg and ended up at 19kg two years later. He had gained a massive 18% of his original weight!

Neutering may predispose an animal to weight gain but this weight gain is avoidable with careful attention to feeding regimens post-operatively. In my opinion, the benefits of neutering far outweigh the potential risk of weight gain.

As always, prevention is better than cure! It is really useful to take your pet to the vet surgery regularly for routine weight checks. This way, small increases in weight can be noted and corrected quickly. It is also a good way to get your pet used to the surgery so that he or she is not afraid that something ‘bad’ will happen- weight checks are fun because they usually end with a cuddle (for the pet)!

Why should we worry if our pet is overweight or obese? Even being slightly overweight will reduce the lifespan of your pet and predispose them to problems.

I have seen many overweight pets that are just ‘slow’, they are less active and have a reduced exercise tolerance. Being overweight predisposes to breathing difficulties, heart disease and a reduced immunity. It also increases the risk associated with anaesthesia and surgery.

Joint problems are more prevalent in overweight dogs. Pregnant animals that are overweight have increased risk of dystocia (difficulty giving birth) which may result in the need for a caesarean. Obesity can even predispose to the development of ‘cancer’.

Diabetes mellitus can result from obesity, especially in cats. Overweight cats can also develop a condition called hepatic lipidosis which is fat accumulation in the liver resulting in liver damage. Feline lower urinary tract disease (cystitis) is much more common in overweight male cats and can result in a blockage of the urethra and an inability to urinate which can be life-threatening.

How can we tell if our pet is at the correct weight? When touching a normal animal you should be able to feel his or her ribs easily. In a dog there should be a little ‘waist’ when viewed from above and a ‘tucked up’ abdomen when viewed from the side. Cats should also have a slightly ‘tucked up’ abdomen! Please see the Prurina guide below.

If you can’t easily feel your pet’s ribs please take him or her to the vet for an assessment.

There are many ways we can help your pet to lose weight if needed. The aim is to lose weight at the rate of 1-2 % per week until the desired weight is reached and then maintain it- this is lifelong treatment involving calorie control and exercise.

Firstly we must reduce overall calorie intake. This may be as simple as slightly reducing portion size and cutting out/reducing/changing unhealthy treats. Remember that animals don’t always require food as a reward! A cuddle or game will do just as well! For dogs, using toys such as ‘Kong’ toys is a way to make the food portion last longer and provides mental stimulation whilst retrieving the food. Sometimes just actually weighing the daily portion of food can make a huge difference because then you accurately know how much food your pet is actually eating!

If stricter reductions in calorie intake are required, then I recommend a veterinary prescription diet- the protein, vitamins and minerals are balanced to a lower intake of diet overall. Restricting the quantities of a normal diet may cause a risk of deficiencies.

Increasing exercise is also really important to use up calories and ensure that lean muscle is retained as your pet loses weight. This increase needs to be initiated slowly so as not to physically strain your pet until their health has improved. Older pets with arthritis may require pain medications to encourage them to exercise until they have lost some weight. Hydrotherapy can be an excellent way to help with weight loss, some cats even take to it!

A professional dog walker may be helpful for elderly or disabled/ill owners. The Cinnamon Trust is a UK-based charity that puts dog owners and voluntary dog walkers in contact with each other. Visit www.cinnamon.org.uk !

Recently two veterinary prescription medications have entered the market as an aid to weight loss in DOGS. They work by reducing appetite and the amount of fat absorption. They are NOT licensed for long term use and are designed to aid initial weight loss whilst new feeding and exercise regimens are put into place.

All weight loss programmes for your pet should be undertaken with the aid of your veterinary team. Weight checks every 2-4 weeks are recommended initially. Measuring the circumference of your pet’s waist and taking regular photos will help you see how well your pet is progressing.

Remember ‘Red’ who had gained 18% o his bodyweight!? Well, it took about 8 months to get ‘Red’ back down to his optimal weight. All the effort was worth it because he is now back to his old spritely tricks!

Please remember to regularly check your pet’s weight and ensure they are maintaining optimal weight. This will help ensure they lead long, healthy, happy lives!

Have fun with your pets!

‘Compassion for animals, passion for nature.’

Copyright© Shanson Ltd 2008

The reason that vet fees are rising is because the service being offered is getting better and better. The body of professional knowledge continually increases. Vets are able to offer more diagnostics and treatments then ever before. If they don’t charge for these services how can they offer them?

Many practices now have ultrasound machines, endoscopes and some have digital x-ray machines. Some referral practices now also have CT and MRI facilities. These pieces of equipment allow vets to diagnose conditions which would have been much more difficult before their advent. Examples of such conditions include brain tumours, spinal cord lesions, heart disease, inflammatory bowel disease, elbow dysplasia and pancreatic tumours.

Previous diagnostic methods may have been much more invasive and dangerous to the animal. Some conditions may not even have been possible to diagnose.

Because of these technical developments animals are able to be diagnosed and then treated for a lot more conditions now then ever before. However, the cost of purchasing these pieces of equipment can reach hundreds of thousands of pounds. Unfortunately some of the cost must be passed on to the client in the fees.

As veterinary knowledge expands animals are also treated for a variety of conditions that may have resulted in euthanasia at other times in history. Examples include successfully managing kidney failure in cats, overactive thyroids in cats, diabetes in cats and dogs, dental disease in rabbits, bladder stones in guinea pigs. Many tumours are now successfully cured or palliated with surgery, chemotherapy and radiation therapy. Hip replacements are now possible for dogs with debilitating hip dysplasia.

I think these advances in veterinary care are amazing!

We are very lucky in the UK to have subsidised dental care and ‘free’ health care. Of course we pay for these services with our taxes but we don’t see the actual bills for individual treatments. If we did I’m sure we would appreciate what good value veterinary care actually is!

Also, one needs to remember that the costs of running the actual premises of the surgery are increasing slowly all the time. There are mortgages, council tax, water bills, electricity and gas bills, buildings and indemnity insurance, telephone bills, internet connection, computer system hosting to consider. Waste disposal is also a huge expense for a veterinary surgery. There is clinical waste to consider as well as normal paper based waste. I’m sure there are other costs to consider that I’ve not mentioned!

Surgeries that employ fully qualified nurses will also have higher training and employment costs. It is very important the veterinary nurses and veterinarians continually refresh and update their knowledge by attending Continuing Professional Development courses. Again these cost money!

When you get your next vet bill, please remember that you are paying for the expertise of the veterinary staff and support staff, the medications and equipment costs and all the costs involved in running an actual building. Vet practices, in my experience, generally charge fairly for the services they provide and generally profits are ploughed back into the practice to keep offering better and better services.

I hope this has helped in providing some explanation about the costs of veterinary care. Also, please discuss pet insurance with your veterinary surgery. I highly recommend pet insurance so that if your beloved pet should need veterinary care for an illness or accident, the worry of the fees will be lessened.

‘Compassion for animals, passion for nature’

Copyright © Shanson Ltd 2008

As a vet, I recommend vaccination to prevent against infectious diseases where this is possible. There are currently vaccines available for cats, dogs and rabbits.

Taking your pet to the vet for his or her regular vaccination is, in my opinion, very important. Not only does your pet receive the protection from infectious disease from the vaccine, he or she should also receive a full health check. This health check, in my opinion, involves a weight check, examination of the eyes, ears, mouth, listening to the heart and lungs, palpating the neck, groin and abdomen, checking the anus and genitals and checking the general mobility and demeanour of the animal.

Taking your pet regularly to the vets when he or she is healthy and well also allows your pet to find the experience enjoyable rather then painful and frightening and aids a happy long term relationship with your vet practice. It is also a perfect time to discuss any preventative care, for example reducing the symptoms of arthritis as your pet ages.

As Cesar Millan, ‘the dog whisperer’ commented, having a positive state of mind and happy energy when taking your dog to the vet will rub off on your dog so that their experience is happy. Obviously it is easier to be in this state of mind when your pet is healthy and you are going to the vet for routine, preventative care.

Whenever pets come to the clinic I prefer to weigh them. Changes in weight can be a warning sign. Sometimes pets start to get overweight so slowly that their owner doesn’t actually notice. However the scales don’t lie and often the move towards obesity can be stopped in its tracks. Likewise weight loss, especially if consistent or rapid can also cause alarm bells to ring. Weight loss can be an early warning sign of many conditions, for example, kidney and thyroid disease in older cats, heart disease in older cats and dogs and dental disease in rabbits.

Many owners find it difficult to look into their pet’s mouth which can provide a wealth of information on general health. The colour of the gums, the smell of the pet’s breath and the state of the teeth can all be evaluated. Dental disease is common in all species and can be the cause of chronic pain. I have also found tumours in pets’ mouths at routine vaccination which could be removed quickly, before they had a chance to cause major problems.

Obviously pet owners are unable to listen to their pet’s heart and lungs properly. Diagnosing heart conditions before the pet becomes debilitated is very useful for implementing a long term treatment plan.

I have also palpated masses inside pets’ abdomens at routine vaccination which allowed investigation and treatment to be initiated before the animal had become very unwell.

The anus and penis or vulva of their pet, are regions many pet owners do not check themselves. Again the vaccination is a great time to make sure these areas are all normal.

There are no vaccinations for guinea pigs or ferrets but these animals can live for up to six and eight years respectively. Chinchillas can live for ten- fifteen years. It is therefore useful for these species to have a yearly check up too, checking for any changes that may indicate early signs of illness.

I love seeing happy healthy pets at vaccination or health checks, having a quick cuddle with the pet and chat with their owner. I’m sure other vets feel the same way!

‘Compassion for animals, passion for nature’

Copyright © Shanson Ltd 2008